Friday, 13 August 2021

Hailar (Part two)

          So the plan was to go to an Ewenke people's town and see how things look over there. I heard that there was a town about 26km from Hailar called Bayantala

I am on the right track...... I think.

        I took a bus to go there but the bus did not go the whole way out there. So I walked quite a few kilometers. On my way , I passed by workers building new houses ,  some animals and the usual (both in China and  many other places) unsold houses. 

It is not THAT cold outside!


Looks like a 藏族 setup but over here there are 蒙族


                                                    
                                                                    I think more houses are called for!
                                                       

Just here to look around. Please continue whatever it is you are doing, Mr. cow. 

I am not here to steal your water or grass.

Is the such a thing as a guard cow?

An interesting alternative to online selling of houses.


     When I finally arrived in the town , I just saw a lot of yellow houses (It felt more like home than China). It kind of reminded me of the countryside back home but with a few less sheep.

                                        

                                                        picket fence - check  , nice road - check.


As I reached the center of the village I had to agree with the guy who was working on the roads. There is not a hell of a lot to see here. So, I took a rest for about 2 hours and I decided to walk back along the highway.
As I was walking back along the highway , a guy pulled over in his car and offered me a lift back into town. While he was driving me back he mentioned that he was taking part in a play on the grasslands and I would be welcome to join if I wanted to go. As I had nothing planned I took 丹巴 up on his offer and he collected his family in his car. He took a turnoff into a field and then he drove maybe 12 km in one monster sized field to the area in question. I was wondering how he was able to find the place itself as all I could see was fields in every direction. Someone had put flags in the ground though so Danba was able to follow the flags in the general direction and he had no problem finding the top of the hill.
Then I watched 4 hours of Ewenke and Daur people (Mongolian people) singing and dancing.It was quite different to see people enjoying themselves in the middle of nowhere (From my perspective.) It was nice to not get stared at and the people seemed very approachable and friendly. Danba was telling me that his family had come over from Russia and settled here but they did not see places such as Russia and China as places per se. Everyone lives on the land and the land is the most important part. The country is a bit irrelevent.

Open land everywhere

Where do you park?
In the field.

Yurts in the distance.

Follow the crowd to the main event.



The presenters.

Boys and girls



Flowing with the breeze

The setup was nice.
There was a speaker setup somewhere.


I need to get a bit closer to the action.





                                          
                                                    Ewenke people and Daur people


Western clothes

He had a strong pair of lungs.


I was not the only one taking photos 


I need one of those hats.


Getting the horse to stay still amongst a crowd is some feat




Line dancing , Mongolian style


Closing time

                                                  
                                 It must have been some effort to get the horses to this location.

            The event finished around 7  and Danba drove us back to his place. I got the feeling that this place is very family orientated. That evening everyone was invited back to have some food back at the house. There was a football event on the morning of the event so all those guys went to a yurt to relax. I decided to have a quick look around. I couldn't  get over the vast amount of land not separated by anything.    
Sexy tractor pic.

This yurt was located in the front yard (if a yard was made from grass)

A nice place to sit down with a cup of tea.

Lamb, noodles and beef Baozi.
Nice!

A photo taken from outside the house.
I had never seen a view like this before .



Thursday, 12 August 2021

Finally..... from Qiqihar to Hailar, part 1 - (从齐齐哈尔到海拉尔,第一部分)

          

The meat in this food from Qiqihar tastes fresh.


              My whole idea of going to the north of the country always involved going to Inner Mongolia. Initially, I planned to come here first and work my way downwards but for some reason, I was not able to book a flight to Hailar . So , I altered it to come here at the end. I thought I would see plenty of grassland here. I did not know what to expect as regards the people. To be honest, everyone (that was not concerned with the virus had been nice.) Well, apart from the guys who wait until you leave the train station and then shout in your direction. At this point in time, (or at any point in time) I always need at least 10 minutes breathing space when I leave the train station just to get used to the new environment. Anyway, as it happened I need not have worried about the taxi guys today. So why was that?

           Well, the virus was building in strength (the rumours about it , the possibility of people carrying it, cross border (as regards cross provincial) travelling etcetera.) I still needed to give the ears a bit of a cleaning and I had no look with the hospitals in Harbin and Qiqihar. 

           When I got off the train (along with about 80 others) we went to the main exit but we had to swip the health code thingy. At this point the woman who was observing the health code saw that I had been in Shenyang (and I think Dalian) so she asked me to see the nucleic acid test (核酸检测). I did not have any. I just brought the sheet of paper that indicated that I took the vaccine. (I don't think anyone cares about that one.) 

          Anyway, the upshot of it (after a bit of deliberation -- (i.e: Myself asking her to speak a little slower , a few odd looks -- followed by another woman (also wearing the full hazmat garb) who  explained everything.) was a visit to the hospital straight from the train station. [To be honest , I was really glad that the second woman explained the procedure as I was a bit confused as to what was going on. At the same time as she was explaining the procedure to me, she had at least 6 guys shouting at her to tell her the their health codes were fine and that they did not want to wait in queue's]. The guys that work in these station must have some patience.

        So , 2 other people and myself were loaded up in the bus and transported 7 km to the local hospital. It was about 5.30 P.M. We were escorted to the place where the tests were taking place but it appeared like everyone had gone home. 

           After a quick phone call, the keys to the hospital were obtained and the cotton bud down the throat test was completed. We were told to wait in a deserted bus for 2 hours to get the results. To me this sounded a bit strange as if one of us had the virus, surely sitting on a bus with others might easily spread it? 

waiting....waiting...waiting


           I guess the others thought in a similar manner as nobody ended up sitting in the bus and we waited in a field for the 2 hours. It was nice to get talking to a couple of people who had taken their test right before us. I asked one guy what he was doing here. He relied that he is here for a meeting and that he comes from Wuhan... We both started laughing.

The result.
The word '阴性' means negative.

               Anyway, around 7.30, the results came through and everyone was OK, so the police gave us the piece of paper and I left the place to find a place to sleep for the night.

Not sure what this symbolizes but it looks nice

People are always busy at any time playing chess or dancing.

The new place complete with fan (Which is not necessary up this far north)

Clouds v waste 
Hailar on a chilly morning.

        I had heard that there was a museum for the 鄂温克族 Ewenke people nearby. I wanted to check it out as I heard that the culture is quite different.

Typical clothes from the past

These might come in handy in  the winter.

                                 Those hats are needed when the temperature goes below -40 degrees celsius

A typical scene



A bow and arrow as well as a deer horn caller


I heard that there was a park in the centre of the town called Genghis Khan square. I am sure it had some symbolism so it was time to find it. First, grab a bus.
Em , not much room on this bus.
I was wondering at one point how could I actually get off the bus...

The man himself....in statue form.

I walked around the park for a while. A couple of locals saw me and wondered if I was a lost Russian. There were not interested in asking me but I responded to their loud conversation anyway. 
Genghis and the lads

Sunshine on a sunny day


Although the park always has its moments, it is always nice to just go for a ramble and see other things (usually this ends up in me walking into another park.) Anyway , people really like flower arrangements up north. 
The pot hot sick and out came the flowers. 


Russia that way!



            I found out that the locals like to take a dip in the river , too. (Many people down south seem to have an aversion to water. That does not seem to be the case up here.)
Looks like a safe enough place to swim

I decided to head back to the hostel. I did not bring an umbrella with me as I had not seen any rain  at any point along the journey. The heavens opened for maybe 10 minutes and afterwards I could not get over the amount of rain that had fallen on the street! I had to walk in the middle of the road as some of the path were flooded.

After a 10 minute torrential downpour.

It might be easier to row to the other side.

                         I went home for a few hours and by the time I went back out on the streets, the floodwater had disappeared. 
                         I still needed to get the ears cleaned out and it appeared that the hospitals would cause more harm than good at  this point. As I was ewalking down the street I noticed a sign in one of the massage place '采耳' (pick ear)so I thought that I might as well give that a go. So I walked into the place.
                        A woman brought me into the place and I told her that I had a ton of cr*p in my ear and please help me get it out. I guess she had not done this that much before (I don't think people in general go in there for the ear picking activities.) But she proceeded to get a lot of gunk out of my ears. Afterwards she became VERY confused . She asked if I wanted anything else and at this point I was just happy to realign my balance again. I said I REALLY did not want anything else and thanked her for doing what the hospitals refused to do.
                        It was one strange experience . I must remember to clean the ears out the next time before going on my travels.